By Ezra Klein
This is from a New York Times blurb recommending their latest cookbook, Skillet Recipes:
Did you know that lasagna, pizza and soufflés can be made in a skillet? They’re not so bad, though they’re more impressive for their resourcefulness than for how they actually taste. The recipes trend toward the low- to-middlebrow (tuna noodle casserole, sloppy Joes, pad Thai), with a variety of ethnic entrees and French-Italian classics, from salmon with lentils and chard to Tuscan-style steak with garlicky spinach.
To be honest, the best part about Cook’s Illustrated is the writing: the editors’ dogged, formulaic process has lapsed into parody, reading like a cross between Goldilocks and Garrison Keillor’s Guy Noir: “We tried replacing some of the cheddar with Gruyère, but its strong flavor did not sit well with tasters,” they write of a mac ’n’ cheese. “Gouda, havarti and fontina were all given a shot, but none tasted just right. We hit the jackpot with Monterey Jack — it helped smooth out the sauce and created that silky texture we were after.” Phew!