By Ezra Klein
Like Ari Weinzweig, I love Spanish-style fried eggs. But his encomium is a bit quiet on the technique. Since this is something I’ve recently learned, however, I’m happy to share.
Take a small pan. Eight inches at the most. Heat a quarter cop of olive oil until it’s really freaking hot. Tilt the pan sharply upwards and — this is important — away from you, so the oil collects in a little pool at the opposite edge of the pan. Crack an egg into the oil bath (I usually pour it in from a small cup) and use a wooden spoon to nudge the whites atop the yolk. This won’t quite seem to work, but it helps the egg keep shape. Fry the egg with the pan tilted upwards. This fried egg will not look like past fried eggs. It will not be a flat crunch of white with a creamy mound of yolk. It will be an egg basket. An egg puff. An egg bassinet. It will grow and warp and bubble in ways that are actually a bit grotesque, but unbearable delicious.
Let the little guy fry for 30 or 40 seconds while basting the top with the oil. When it’s golden and puffy and delicious looking, but the yolk is still quite wet, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat for as many eggs as you want to eat. I like to serve it atop well-salted rice and a spicy, thin tomato sauce (almost a salsa).