By Ezra Klein
The Boston Globe’s editorial page gets punchy:
If the American public is serious about rejecting all sensible dietary guidelines, KFC completely fails to deliver. The Double Down poses as the atomic bomb of artery-clogging, but it’s really just a grenade. Many people would have to wait years for a heart attack, even if they ate one every day.
Americans have long mastered double-, triple-, and quadruple-decker sandwiches. And yet this ostensibly innovative new sandwich features just one story — a design that is outdated and ill-suited to sate the average American gullet. And it contains merely two types of meat. Would it have killed KFC to add ground beef? Some pork? And, to wash the whole thing down a bit, a bucket of nacho cheese for dipping? If there’s one thing Americans are qualified to do, it’s judge fast-food sandwiches, and they are likely to punish KFC for not going nearly far enough. The Double Down is just a 540-calorie disappointment.
I think about the double-down slightly differently: At 540 calories, if this sandwich had been released in 2003, it would’ve been marketed as a healthful, Atkins-friendly alternative to the dreaded bun menace.